i-cocoyl glutamic acid

Okuphuma ku-amino acid kuwumndeni obanzi kakhulu wezithako ezinemisebenzi eyahlukene.Sesivele sibhekane namasegimenti athile, njengama-biopeptides noma ama-lipoamino acid.Omunye umndeni othakaselwa kakhulu yizinto eziphuma ku-glutamic acid, “i-acetyl glutamates,” ezinentshisekelo enkulu njengesisekelo sokwakheka kwegwebu okuhlukahlukene.Lawa ama-surfactants amahle kakhulu.UVirginie Herenton uye wakunakekela kakhulu lokhu eminyakeni yamuva, esivumela ukuba sihambe kulo mkhathi.Ngiyabonga kuye.UJean Claude Le Joliève
Njengesisekelo samakhemikhali e-amino acid anamafutha, i-acyl glutamates yavusa isasasa langempela emikhiqizweni yokuhlanza ezimonyoni zaseYurophu ngasekupheleni kwawo-1990.Ngokombono wesayensi, lawa ma-surfactants athathwa njengama-surfactants angasebenzi kahle futhi angcono kakhulu emhlabeni.Izithako ezisebenzayo zinezici eziningi futhi zizohlala zithembisa kakhulu eminyakeni ezayo.
I-Acyl glutamate yenziwe nge-C8 fatty acids eyodwa noma ngaphezulu kanye ne-L-glutamic acid futhi ikhiqizwa ukusabela kwe-acylation.
Umcwaningi waseJapane u-Kikunae Ikeda ekuqaleni wathola umami (ukunambitheka okumnandi) njenge-glutamate ngo-1908. Wathola ukuthi isobho le-kelp laliqukethe okunye kwalokhu, kanye nemifino, inyama, inhlanzi nokudla okubilile.Wafaka isicelo selungelo lobunikazi ukuze enze isinongo se-MSG esibizwa ngokuthi “Ajinomoto” futhi ngo-1908 wasebenzisana nosozimboni waseJapane u-Suzuki Saburosuke ukukhiqiza nokudangala okusungulile.Kusukela lapho, i-monosodium glutamate isetshenziswe njengesithuthukisi sokunambitha ekudleni.
Ngawo-1960 wabona ucwaningo olubalulekile kuma-acyl glutamates njengama-anionic surfactants athambile.I-Class 1 i-acylglutamic acid yethulwa yi-Ajinomoto ngo-1972 futhi yaqala ukusetshenziswa esinkwa sokuhlanza isikhumba yinkampani yaseJapane eyenza imithi i-Yamanouchi.
EYurophu, abakhiqizi bezimonyo baba nesithakazelo kule khemikhali maphakathi nawo-1990.I-Beiersdorf yasebenza kakhulu ku-MSG futhi yayingelinye lamaqembu okuqala aseYurophu ukuyisebenzisa emikhiqizweni yawo.Isizukulwane esisha semikhiqizo yokuhlanzeka sizalwa, enekhwalithi ephezulu kanye nenhlonipho enkulu ngesakhiwo se-epidermis.
Ngo-1995, i-Z&S Group yaba ngumkhiqizi wokuqala wezinto ezingavuthiwe eYurophu ukukhiqiza i-acylglutamic acid esitshalweni sayo sase-Italy e-Tricerro futhi iyaqhubeka nokuqamba izinto ezintsha kule ndawo.
Ngokusho kokusabela kukaSchotten-Bauman, uhlobo olungathathi hlangothi lwe-acylglutamic acid lutholakala ngokusabela kwamafutha acid chloride nge-glutamic acid ngemuva kokungathathi hlangothi kosawoti wesodium ngosawoti wesodium:
Izinqubo zezimboni zidinga ama-solvents, ngakho-ke ngaphezu kukasawoti osele ekuphenduleni kwe-Schotten-Bowman, i-reaction byproducts nayo iyakhiwa.I-solvent esetshenzisiwe ingase ibe i-hexane, i-acetone, i-isopropyl alcohol, i-propylene glycol, noma i-propylene glycol.
Embonini yamakhemikhali kunezindlela ezihlukahlukene ezilandela ukusabela okuyisisekelo kwe-Bowman: - Ukuhlukaniswa nama-acids amaminerali ukuze kukhishwe usawoti nezincibilikisi kulandelwa ukungathathi hlangothi: ukuhlanzeka komkhiqizo wokugcina kuphezulu, kodwa inqubo esetshenzisiwe idinga izinyathelo ezimbalwa ngokusetshenziswa kwamandla aphezulu.- Ama-salts agcinwa ekupheleni kwenqubo futhi i-solvent i-distilled: lokhu kuyindlela enobungani bemvelo kunezindlela zangaphambilini, kodwa kudinga izinyathelo ezengeziwe zokusabela okuyinhloko - Usawoti kanye ne-solvents kugcinwa ekupheleni kwenqubo yezimboni;Inqubo: Lena indlela yesinyathelo esisodwa esimeme kakhulu.Ngakho-ke, ukukhethwa kwe-solvent kubalulekile futhi, esimweni se-propylene glycol, kunganikeza izinzuzo ezengeziwe ze-acylglutamic acid, njenge-hydration noma ukwanda kwe-solubility yokwakheka.
Yize ubumsulwa be-acylglutamic acid eba umphumela bubalulekile, abakhiqizi bathi isidingo semikhiqizo yezimonyo siyakhula ngenxa yemikhuba ehambisana nemvelo.
Elinye iphuzu elibalulekile lale ndlela eqhubekayo imvelaphi esekelwe esitshalweni futhi evuselelekayo yezinto ezingavuthiwe okwakhiwa ngazo ama-acylglutamic acid.Ama-acids anamafutha avela emafutheni esundu, i-RSPO (I-Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil) (lapho etholakala khona) noma emafutheni kakhukhunathi.I-Glutamic acid itholakala ngokuvutshelwa kwe-beet molasses noma ukolweni.
I-Glutamic acid kanye nama-fatty acids yizingxenye zomzimba zesikhumba nezinwele.I-Glutamic acid iyi-amino acid ebalulekile ye-epidermal NMF (i-natural moisturizing factor), isandulela se-PCA, futhi iyi-amino acid ebalulekile ye-proline ne-hydroxyproline (ama-amino acid amabili abalulekile ekuhlanganiseni kwe-collagen ne-elastin).I-keratin iqukethe i-15% ye-glutamic acid.
Ama-fatty acids wamahhala ku-stratum corneum enza ama-25% yenani eliphelele le-epidermal lipids.Zibalulekile ekusebenzeni kwesithiyo sesikhumba.
Ngesikhathi se-keratinization, inqubo yokuthola i-cuticle, inani elikhulu lama-enzyme avela emizimbeni ye-Odran livuselelwa endaweni engaphandle kwamaseli.Lawa ma-enzyme angaphula ama-substrates ahlukahlukene.
Lapho i-acylterocarboxylic acid isetshenziswa esikhumbeni, ihlukaniswa yilawa ma-enzyme ukuze kwakhe izingxenye ezimbili zokuqala: ama-fatty acids ne-glutamic acid.
Lokhu kusho ukuthi ngeke kube khona izinsalela zama-surfactants ngokuvamile ahlotshaniswa nama-acylglutamic acid nama-acylaminoacids esikhumbeni noma ezinweleni.Ngenxa yokusebenzisa lawa ma-surfactants, isikhumba nezinwele zibuyisela ukwakheka kwazo komzimba.
Ukusinda kwamaseli angu-100% phambi kwe-sodium octanoyl glutamate.Kungokufanayo nasemaketangeni amafutha amade.
Isibonelo, i-cholesterol iyi-lipid ye-intercellular ye-cornea layer futhi idlala indima ebalulekile emsebenzini wokuvimbela isikhumba.Akufanele ichithwe noma ichithwe kancane kuphela ama-surfactants afakwe kufomula yokuhlanza.
Ngokuvamile, i-sodium lauroyl glutamate ne-acyl glutamate, kungakhathaliseki ukuthi i-fat chain, ayiwona ama-defatting agents.Basusa ingxenye ebalulekile ye-rash, kodwa hhayi i-intercellular cementing lipids edingekayo ukuze kugcinwe amanzi e-stratum corneum.Lokhu kwaziwa njengekhono lokukhetha elikhethiwe le-acyl glutamates.
I-sodium cocoyl glutamate ithuthukisa kakhulu umphumela wokuthambisa wemikhiqizo yokuhlanza.Iphinde yehlise ukumenyezelwa kwe-SLES (sodium laureth sulfate) esikhumbeni futhi iyi-hydrophilic oil-in-water emulsifier evumela ukucutshungulwa okubandayo kwesikhumba.Ngakho-ke, ingasetshenziswa ukugeza izinto esikhundleni sokuwasha.Okufanayo kusebenza kuchungechunge lwe-lauroyl.Lawa ngamaketango amabili akhuluphele kakhulu asetshenziswa emakethe yezimonyo.
Isibalo esingezansi sifingqa izici zomsebenzi ezihlukene ze-acylglutamic acid engezwe ku-glutamic acid kuye ngeketango lamafutha elikhethiwe.
Isebenzisa indlela esimeme nentsha, Iqembu le-Z&S linikezela ngezinhlobonhlobo zama-acyl glutamates ngaphansi kwegama lomkhiqizo elithi “PROTELAN”.
Isebenza kaningi futhi ihlinzeka ngenqwaba yezinzuzo zesikhumba nezinwele, iyaphambili futhi ihlangabezana ngokugcwele nokulindelwe ngabathengi bekhulu lama-21, kuyilapho yenza impilo yonjiniyela ibe lula kakhulu!Zikuvumela ukuthi wenze ngokunengqondo ama-rinses nama-rinse ngenkathi unamathela kumgomo odumile othi "okuncane kakhulu": izithako ezimbalwa, izinzuzo eziningi.Bahlanganisa ngokuphelele i-chemistry esimeme futhi enomthwalo wemfanelo.
I-CosmeticOBS - I-Cosmetic Observatory iwumthombo ohamba phambili wolwazi embonini yezimonyo.Imithetho yaseYurophu neyamazwe ngamazwe, izitayela zemakethe, izindaba zesithako, imikhiqizo emisha, imibiko evela ezinkomfeni nemibukiso: I-Cosmeticobs inikeza ukuqapha kwezimonyo ezichwepheshile, ezibuyekezwa ngesikhathi sangempela nsuku zonke.