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i-cocoyl glutamic acid

I-amino acid derivatives lusapho olubanzi kakhulu lwezithako ezinemisebenzi eyahlukeneyo.Sele sijongane namanye amacandelo, afana ne-biopeptides okanye i-lipoamino acids.Olunye usapho olunomdla okhethekileyo luyi-glutamic acid derivatives, "i-acetyl glutamates," enomdla kakhulu njengesiseko seendlela ezahlukeneyo ze-foam.Ezi zi-surfactants ezigqwesileyo.UVirginie Herenton uye wakukhathalela kakhulu oku kwiminyaka yakutshanje, esivumela ukuba sihambe kule ndalo iphela.Ndiyabulela kuye.UJean Claude Le Joliève
Njengesiseko sekhemikhali ye-amino acid enamafutha, i-acyl glutamates yavuselela umdla wokwenyani kwiimveliso zokuhlanjululwa kwizinto zokuthambisa zaseYurophu ngasekupheleni kweminyaka yoo-1990.Ngokwembono yezenzululwazi, ezi zixhobo ze-surfactants zithathwa njenge-surfactants engasebenzi kakuhle kwaye zezona zibalaseleyo emhlabeni.Izithako ezisebenzayo zinemiba emininzi kwaye ziya kuhlala zithembisa kakhulu kwiminyaka ezayo.
I-Acyl glutamate yenziwe enye okanye ngaphezulu kwe-C8 fatty acids kunye ne-L-glutamic acid kwaye iveliswa yi-acylation reaction.
Umphandi waseJapan uKikunae Ikeda ekuqaleni wachaza umami (incasa emnandi) njenge glutamate ngowe-1908. Wafumanisa ukuba isuphu yekelp iqulethe ezinye zezi, kunye nemifuno, inyama, intlanzi kunye nokutya okuvundisiweyo.Wafaka isicelo selungelo elilodwa lomenzi wechiza ukuze enze i-MSG isinongo esibizwa ngokuba yi-“Ajinomoto” kwaye ngo-1908 wasebenzisana nosomashishini waseJapan uSuzuki Saburosuke ukuvelisa nokuthengisa into ayiqambileyo.Ukusukela ngoko, i-monosodium glutamate isetyenziswe njenge-flavour enhancer ekutyeni.
Ngeminyaka yoo-1960 yabona uphando olubalulekileyo kwi-acyl glutamates njengee-anionic surfactants.I-Class 1 i-acylglutamic acid yaziswa ngu-Ajinomoto ngo-1972 kwaye yaqala ukusetyenziswa kwi-dermatological yokuhlanjululwa kwesonka yinkampani yaseJapan yamayeza yaseYamanouchi.
EYurophu, abavelisi bezithambiso baba nomdla kule khemikhali phakathi kwiminyaka yee-1990.I-Beiersdorf yasebenza kakhulu kwi-MSG kwaye yaba lelinye lamaqela okuqala aseYurophu ukulisebenzisa kwiimveliso zabo.Isizukulwana esitsha seemveliso zokucoceka sizalwa, kunye nomgangatho ophezulu kunye nentlonipho enkulu yesakhiwo se-epidermis.
Kwi-1995, i-Z & S Group yaba ngumvelisi wokuqala we-raw material eYurophu ukuvelisa i-acylglutamic acid kwisityalo sayo sase-Italiya e-Tricerro kwaye iyaqhubeka nokuvuselela kule ndawo.
Ngokwempendulo ye-Schotten-Bauman, uhlobo olungathathi hlangothi lwe-acylglutamic acid lufunyanwa ngokusabela kwe-acid acid chlorides kunye ne-glutamic acid emva kokungathathi hlangothi kwetyuwa yesodium ngetyuwa yesodium:
Iinkqubo zoshishino zifuna i-solvents, ngoko ke ngaphezu kweetyuwa ezisele kwi-reaction ye-Schotten-Bowman, i-reaction byproducts nayo yenziwe.I-solvent esetyenzisiweyo ingaba yi-hexane, i-acetone, i-isopropyl alcohol, i-propylene glycol, okanye i-propylene glycol.
Kwishishini lemichiza kukho iindlela ezahlukeneyo ezilandela i-reaction ye-Bowman eyisiseko: - Ukwahlula kunye ne-acids minerals ukususa i-salts kunye ne-solvents elandelwa yi-neutralization: ukucoceka kwemveliso yokugqibela kuphezulu, kodwa inkqubo esetyenzisiweyo idinga amanyathelo amaninzi kunye nokusetyenziswa kwamandla aphezulu.– Iityuwa zigcinwa ekupheleni kwenkqubo kwaye i-solvent i-distilled: le yindlela ehambelana nokusingqongileyo kuneendlela zangaphambili, kodwa idinga amanyathelo angaphezulu kwi-reaction ephambili - Iityuwa kunye ne-solvents zigcinwa ekupheleni kwenkqubo yoshishino;Inkqubo: Le yeyona ndlela izinzileyo yenyathelo elinye.Ngoko ke, ukhetho lwe-solvent lubaluleke kakhulu kwaye, kwimeko yepropylene glycol, inokubonelela ngeenzuzo ezongezelelweyo ze-acylglutamic acid, ezifana ne-hydration okanye ukunyuka kwe-solubility yokwakheka.
Ngelixa ukucoceka kwesiphumo se-acylglutamic acid kubalulekile, abavelisi bathi imfuno yeempawu zokuthambisa iyakhula ngenxa yezenzo ezinobuntu bendalo.
Enye ingongoma ephambili yale ndlela ezinzileyo yimvelaphi esekelwe kwisityalo kunye neyohlaziywayo yezinto eziluhlaza apho i-acylglutamic acids yenziwe khona.I-fatty acids ivela kwioli yesundu, i-RSPO (I-Roundtable kwi-Sustainable Palm Oil) (apho ikhona) okanye i-coconut oil.I-asidi ye-Glutamic ifunyenwe kwi-fermentation ye-beet molasses okanye ingqolowa.
I-Glutamic acid kunye ne-fatty acids zizinto ze-physiological zesikhumba kunye neenwele.I-Glutamic acid i-amino acid ebalulekileyo ye-epidermal NMF (i-natural moisturizing factor), i-precursor ye-PCA, kunye ne-amino acid ebalulekileyo ye-proline kunye ne-hydroxyproline (ii-amino acids ezimbini ezibalulekileyo kwi-synthesis ye-collagen kunye ne-elastin).I-keratin iqulethe i-15% ye-glutamic acid.
I-fatty acids yamahhala kwi-akhawunti ye-stratum corneum ye-25% yesixa esipheleleyo se-epidermal lipids.Ziyimfuneko kumsebenzi womqobo wolusu.
Ngexesha le-keratinization, inkqubo yokufumana i-cuticle, inani elikhulu le-enzymes ukusuka kwimizimba ye-Odran livuselelwa kwindawo engaphandle kwe-extracellular.Ezi enzyme zinokuqhekeza ii-substrates ezahlukeneyo.
Xa i-acylterocarboxylic acid igalelwa eluswini, ichithwa ngala enzymes ukwenza amacandelo amabini okuqala: i-fatty acids kunye ne-glutamic acid.
Oku kuthetha ukuba akuyi kubakho ntsalela ye-surfactants ehlala ihambelana ne-acylglutamic acids kunye ne-acylaminoacids eluswini okanye ezinweleni.Ngenxa yokusetyenziswa kwezi zixhobo ze-surfactants, ulusu kunye neenwele zibuyisela ukwakheka kwazo komzimba.
I-100% yokusinda kweeseli phambi kwe-sodium octanoyl glutamate.Kukwanjalo nakwimixokelelwane yamafutha amade.
Ngokomzekelo, i-cholesterol yi-lipid ye-intercellular ye-cornea layer kwaye idlala indima ebalulekileyo kumsebenzi womqobo wolusu.Akufanele ichithwe okanye ichithwe nje kancinci ngama-surfactants afakwe kwifomula yokucoca.
Ngokuqhelekileyo, i-lauroyl glutamate ye-sodium kunye ne-acyl glutamate, kungakhathaliseki ukuba i-chain chain, ayizona i-defatting agents.Basusa inxalenye ebalulekileyo ye-rash, kodwa kungekhona i-intercellular cementing lipids eyimfuneko ekugcinweni kwamanzi e-stratum corneum.Oku kwaziwa njengesakhono esikhethiweyo sokukhupha i-acyl glutamates.
I-sodium cocoyl glutamate iphucula kakhulu umphumo wokufuma kwiimveliso zokuhlanjululwa.Kwakhona kunciphisa i-adsorption ye-SLES (i-sodium laureth sulfate) elukhumbeni kwaye i-hydrophilic oil-in-water emulsifier evumela ukuqhutyelwa okubandayo kwesikhumba.Ngoko ke, ingasetyenziselwa ukuhlanjululwa kwezinto endaweni yokuhlamba.Kukwasebenza okufanayo kwikhonkco le-lauroyl.La ngamatyathanga amabini atyebileyo asetyenziswayo ngoku kwimarike yezithambiso.
Lo mzobo ungezantsi ushwankathela imisebenzi eyahlukeneyo ye-acylglutamic acid eyongezwe kwi-asidi ye-glutamic ngokuxhomekeke kwikhonkco elinamafutha akhethiweyo.
Ukusebenzisa indlela ezinzileyo kunye nentsha, iQela le-Z & S linikezela ngoluhlu olubanzi lwe-acyl glutamates phantsi kwegama elithi "PROTELAN".
Isebenza ngezinto ezininzi kwaye inika intaphane yeenzuzo zolusu kunye neenwele, ziyasikwa kwaye zihlangabezana ngokupheleleyo nolindelo lwabathengi benkulungwane yama-21, ngelixa besenza ubomi bomphuhlisi bube lula kakhulu!Bakuvumela ukuba wenze i-rinses kunye ne-rinses ngokufanelekileyo ngelixa unamathela kumgaqo odumileyo othi "uncinci ungaphezulu": izithako ezimbalwa, iinzuzo ezininzi.Badibanisa ngokugqibeleleyo ikhemistri ezinzileyo kunye nenoxanduva.
I-CosmeticOBS-I-Cosmetic Observatory ngumthombo okhokelayo wolwazi kwishishini lezithambiso.Imithetho yaseYurophu kunye nezamazwe ngamazwe, iintsingiselo zemarike, iindaba zezithako, iimveliso ezintsha, iingxelo ezivela kwinkomfa kunye nemiboniso: I-Cosmeticobs ibonelela ngokujongwa kwezithambiso zobuchwephesha, ezihlaziywa ngexesha langempela yonke imihla.


Ixesha lokuposa: Apr-23-2024