cocoyl glutamic acid

Lintho tse tsoang ho amino acid ke lelapa le pharaletseng haholo la metsoako e nang le mesebetsi e fapaneng.Re se re sebetsana le likarolo tse ling, joalo ka biopeptides kapa lipoamino acid.Lelapa le leng le nang le thahasello e khethehileng ke li-derivatives tsa glutamic acid, "acetyl glutamates," tse thahasellisang haholo e le motheo oa mefuta e sa tšoaneng ea foam.Tsena ke li-surfactants tse ntle haholo.Virginie Herenton o hlokometse sena haholo lilemong tsa morao tjena, a re lumella ho tsamaea bokahohleng bona.Ke leboha yena.Jean Claude Le Joliève
E le motheo oa k'hemistri ea amino acid e mafura, li-acyl glutamates li ile tsa tsosa thahasello ea 'nete lihlahisoa tse hlatsuoang litlolong tsa Europe ho elella bofelong ba lilemo tsa bo-1990.Ho ea ka pono ea mahlale, li-surfactants tsena li nkuoa e le li-surfactants tse bonolo tse nang le mesebetsi e mengata 'me ke tsona tse ntle ka ho fetisisa lefatšeng.Lithako tse sebetsang haholo li na le likarolo tse ngata 'me li tla lula li ts'episa lilemong tse tlang.
Acyl glutamate e entsoe ka e 'ngoe kapa ho feta C8 fatty acids le L-glutamic acid' me e hlahisoa ke karabelo ea acylation.
Mofuputsi oa Lejapane Kikunae Ikeda qalong o ile a tsebahatsa umami (tatso e monate) e le glutamate ka 1908. O ile a fumana hore sopho ea kelp e na le tse ling tsa tsona, hammoho le meroho, nama, tlhapi le lijo tse lomositsoeng.O ile a etsa kopo ea tokelo ea molao ea ho hlahisa lihlahisoa tsa MSG tse bitsoang "Ajinomoto" 'me ka 1908 a sebelisana le setsebi sa indasteri sa Japane Suzuki Saburosuke ho hlahisa le ho rekisa tlhahiso ea hae.Ho tloha ka nako eo, monosodium glutamate e 'nile ea sebelisoa e le se matlafatsang tatso lijong.
Lilemong tsa bo-1960 ho bile le lipatlisiso tsa bohlokoa ho li-acyl glutamates e le li-anionic surfactants tse bonolo.Sehlopha sa 1 sa acylglutamic acid se ile sa hlahisoa ke Ajinomoto ka 1972 'me sa qala ho sebelisoa ka bohobe bo hloekisang ba letlalo ke k'hamphani ea meriana ea Japane Yamanouchi.
Europe, baetsi ba litlolo ba ile ba thahasella k'hemik'hale ena bohareng ba bo-1990.Beiersdorf e sebelitse haholo ho MSG mme e bile e 'ngoe ea lihlopha tsa pele tsa Europe ho e sebelisa lihlahisoa tsa bona.Moloko o mocha oa lihlahisoa tsa bohloeki o tsoaloa, o nang le boleng bo phahameng le tlhompho e kholo bakeng sa sebopeho sa epidermis.
Ka 1995, Z&S Group e bile mohlahisi oa pele oa thepa e tala Europe ho hlahisa asiti ea acylglutamic setsing sa eona sa Italy se Tricerro mme e ntse e tsoela pele ho nchafatsa sebakeng sena.
Ho ea ka karabelo ea Schotten-Bauman, mofuta o sa nke lehlakore oa acylglutamic acid o fumanoa ka karabelo ea mafura acid chloride ka glutamic acid kamora ho se nke lehlakore ha letsoai la sodium le letsoai la sodium:
Mekhoa ea indasteri e hloka li-solvents, kahoo ho phaella ho letsoai le setseng karabelong ea Schotten-Bowman, lihlahisoa tsa karabelo li boetse li thehoa.Mokelikeli o sebelisoang e ka ba hexane, acetone, joala ea isopropyl, propylene glycol, kapa propylene glycol.
Ka indasteri ea lik'hemik'hale ho na le mekhoa e sa tšoaneng e latelang karabelo ea motheo ea Bowman: - Ho arohana le li-mineral acids ho tlosa letsoai le li-solvents ho lateloa ke neutralization: bohloeki ba sehlahisoa sa ho qetela bo phahame, empa mokhoa o sebelisoang o hloka mehato e 'maloa e nang le tšebeliso e phahameng ea matla.- Matsoai a bolokoa qetellong ea ts'ebetso 'me solvent e silafatsoa: ena ke mokhoa oa ho boloka tikoloho ho feta mekhoa e fetileng, empa e hloka mehato e eketsehileng bakeng sa karabelo e kholo - Letsoai le li-solvents li bolokiloe qetellong ea ts'ebetso ea indasteri;Tshebetso: Ena ke mokhoa o tsitsitseng ka ho fetisisa oa mohato o le mong.Ka hona, khetho ea solvent ke ea bohlokoa 'me, tabeng ea propylene glycol, e ka fana ka melemo e eketsehileng ea acylglutamic acid, e kang hydration kapa ho eketseha ha solubility ea tlhahiso.
Le ha bohloeki ba sephetho sa acylglutamic acid bo le bohlokoa, bahlahisi ba re tlhoko ea lihlahisoa tsa litlolo e ntse e hola ka lebaka la litloaelo tse baballang tikoloho.
Ntlha e 'ngoe ea bohlokoa ea mokhoa ona o tsitsitseng ke tšimoloho ea limela le e nchafalitsoeng ea lihlahisoa tse tala tseo li-acylglutamic acid li entsoeng ka tsona.Mafura a mafura a tsoa oli ea palema, RSPO (Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil) (moo e leng teng) kapa oli ea kokonate.Asiti ea glutamic e fumanoa ho belisoa ha molasses ea beet kapa koro.
Glutamic acid le mafura acid ke likarolo tsa 'mele tsa letlalo le moriri.Glutamic acid ke amino acid ea bohlokoa bakeng sa epidermal NMF (moisturizing factor ea tlhaho), e leng selelekela sa PCA, hape ke amino acid ea bohlokoa bakeng sa proline le hydroxyproline (li-amino acid tse peli tsa bohlokoa ka ho kopanya collagen le elastin).Keratin e na le 15% glutamic acid.
Li-acids tse sa lefelloeng tsa mafura ka har'a stratum corneum li etsa karolo ea 25% ea palo eohle ea li-epidermal lipids.Li bohlokoa bakeng sa ts'ebetso ea thibelo ea letlalo.
Nakong ea keratinization, mokhoa oa ho fumana cuticle, palo e kholo ea li-enzyme tse tsoang 'meleng oa Odran li hlohlelletsoa sebakeng sa extracellular.Li-enzyme tsena li ka senya likarolo tse fapaneng.
Ha acylterocarboxylic acid e sebelisoa letlalong, e robeha ke li-enzyme tsena ho etsa likarolo tse peli tsa pele: mafura a mafura le glutamic acid.
Sena se bolela hore ho ke ke ha hlola ho e-ba le mesaletsa ea li-surfactants hangata tse amanang le acylglutamic acid le acylaminoacids letlalong kapa moriri.Ka lebaka la tšebeliso ea li-surfactants tsena, letlalo le moriri li tsosolosa sebopeho sa tsona sa 'mele.
100% ea ho pholoha ha lisele ka pel'a sodium octanoyl glutamate.Ho joalo le ka liketane tse telele tsa mafura.
Ka mohlala, k'holeseterole ke lipid ea intercellular ea corneal layer 'me e bapala karolo ea bohlokoa mosebetsing oa mokoallo oa letlalo.Ha ea lokela ho qhibiliha kapa ho qhibiliha hanyenyane feela ke li-surfactants tse kenyelletsoeng mofuteng oa ho hloekisa.
Ka kakaretso, sodium lauroyl glutamate le acyl glutamate, ho sa tsotellehe ketane ea mafura, ha se li-defatting agents.Ba tlosa karolo ea bohlokoa ea lekhopho, empa eseng intercellular cementing lipids e hlokahalang bakeng sa ho boloka metsi a stratum corneum.Sena se tsejoa e le bokhoni bo khethehileng ba ho qhekella ba acyl glutamates.
Sodium cocoyl glutamate e ntlafatsa haholo phello ea mongobo ea lihlahisoa tse hlatsuoang.E boetse e fokotsa ho ata ha SLES (sodium laureth sulfate) letlalong 'me ke emulsifier ea hydrophilic ka metsing e lumellang ho sebetsa ka mokhoa o batang oa letlalo.Ka hona, e ka sebelisoa ho hlatsoa lintho ho e-na le ho hlatsoa.Ho joalo le ka ketane ea lauroyl.Tsena ke liketane tse peli tse nonneng ka ho fetesisa tse sebelisoang hona joale 'marakeng oa litlolo.
Setšoantšo se ka tlase se akaretsa likarolo tse fapaneng tsa ts'ebetso ea acylglutamic acid e kentsoeng ho glutamic acid ho latela ketane ea mafura e khethiloeng.
Ho sebelisa mokhoa o tsitsitseng le o mocha, Sehlopha sa Z&S se fana ka mefuta e mengata ea li-acyl glutamates tlas'a lebitso la "PROTELAN".
Li sebetsa ka bongata 'me li fana ka melemo e mengata bakeng sa letlalo le moriri, li ntse li tsoela pele ebile li fihlela litebello tsa bareki ba lekholong la bo21 la lilemo, ha li ntse li nolofatsa bophelo ba moqapi!Li u lumella ho etsa li-rinses le li-rinses ka mokhoa o utloahalang ha u ntse u khomarela molao-motheo o tummeng oa "tlase ho feta": lisebelisoa tse fokolang, melemo e mengata.Li kopanya ka ho phethahetseng k'hemistri e tsitsitseng le e nang le boikarabelo.
CosmeticOBS - The Cosmetic Observatory ke mohloli o ka sehloohong oa tlhahisoleseling bakeng sa indasteri ea litlolo.Melao ea Europe le ea machaba, mekhoa ea 'maraka, litaba tsa motsoako, lihlahisoa tse ncha, litlaleho tse tsoang likopanong le lipontšo: Cosmeticobs e fana ka tlhokomelo ea litlolo tsa litsebi, e nchafalitsoeng ka nako ea sebele letsatsi le leng le le leng.