cocoyl glutamic acid

Amino acid derivatives imhuri yakakura kwazvo yezvigadzirwa zvine mabasa akasiyana.Takatobata nezvimwe zvikamu, senge biopeptides kana lipoamino acids.Imwe mhuri inonyanya kufarira ndeye glutamic acid inotorwa, iyo "acetyl glutamates," iyo inofadza zvikuru sehwaro hwekuumbwa kwefuro kwakasiyana-siyana.Aya ndiwo akanakisa ma surfactants.Virginie Herenton akatarisira zvikuru izvi mumakore achangopfuura, achitibvumira kufamba kuburikidza nechadenga ichi.Ndatenda kwaari.Jean Claude Le Joliève
Sehwaro hwemafuta amino acid chemistry, acyl glutamates yakamutsa kufarira chaiko muzvigadzirwa zvekusuka muEuropean cosmetics mukupera kwema1990.Kubva pakuona kwesainzi, aya ma surfactants anoonekwa seanopfava akawanda anoshanda surfactants uye ndiwo akanakisa munyika.Hyperactive zvinongedzo zvine akawanda maficha uye zvicharamba zvakavimbisa mumakore anotevera.
Acyl glutamate inoumbwa neimwe kana kupfuura C8 fatty acids uye L-glutamic acid uye inogadzirwa neacylation reaction.
Mutsvakurudzi wechiJapan Kikunae Ikeda akatanga kuona umami (kuravira kunonaka) se glutamate muna 1908. Akawana kuti muto wekelp waiva nezvimwe zveizvi, pamwe chete nemiriwo, nyama, hove uye zvokudya zvakaviriswa.Akanyorera patent yekugadzira indasitiri yeMSG yemwaka inodaidzwa kuti "Ajinomoto" uye muna 1908 akabatana nemuchina wemaindasitiri wekuJapan Suzuki Saburosuke kugadzira nekutengesa zvaakagadzira.Kubva ipapo, monosodium glutamate yakashandiswa sechinhu chinonakisa mukudya.
Ma1960 akaona tsvakiridzo yakakosha muacyl glutamates seyakapfava anionic surfactants.Kirasi 1 acylglutamic acid yakaunzwa neAjinomoto muna 1972 uye yakatanga kushandiswa muchingwa chekuchenesa dermatological nekambani yeJapan yemishonga Yamanouchi.
MuEurope, vagadziri vezvizoro vakafarira kemikari iyi pakati pemakore ekuma1990.Beiersdorf yakashanda zvakanyanya paMSG uye yaive rimwe remapoka ekutanga eEurope kuishandisa muzvigadzirwa zvavo.Chizvarwa chitsva chezvigadzirwa zvehutsanana chinoberekwa, nehupamhi hwepamusoro uye kuremekedzwa kukuru kwechimiro chepidermis.
Muna 1995, Z&S Group yakave yekutanga kugadzira zvinhu muEurope kugadzira acylglutamic acid pachirimwa chayo chekuItaly muTricerro uye inoramba ichivandudza munzvimbo ino.
Zvinoenderana neiyo Schotten-Bauman reaction, iyo isina kurongeka fomu ye acylglutamic acid inowanikwa nekuita kwemafuta acid chlorides ne glutamic acid mushure mekusagadzikana kwe sodium munyu ne sodium munyu:
Maindasitiri maitiro anoda zvinonyungudutsa, saka mukuwedzera kune munyu wakasara muSchotten-Bowman reaction, reaction byproducts inoumbwa zvakare.Mushonga unoshandiswa unogona kuva hexane, acetone, isopropyl alcohol, propylene glycol, kana propylene glycol.
Muindasitiri yemakemikari mune nzira dzakasiyana-siyana dzinotevera maitiro ekutanga eBowman: – Kupatsanurwa nemamineral acids kubvisa munyu nezvinonyungudutsa zvichiteverwa nekusagadzikana: kuchena kwechigadzirwa chekupedzisira kwakakwira, asi nzira inoshandiswa inoda matanho akati wandei nekushandiswa kwesimba kwakanyanya.- Minyu inochengetwa pamagumo ekugadzirisa uye iyo yakanyungudutswa yakasvibiswa: iyi ndiyo nzira yakanyanyisa yezvakatipoteredza kupfuura nzira dzakapfuura, asi inoda mamwe matanho ekugadzirisa kukuru - Munyu uye zvinonyungudutsira zvinochengetwa pamagumo ekugadzirwa kwemabhizimisi;Maitiro: Iyi ndiyo yakanyanya kusimba imwe-nhanho nzira.Nokudaro, kusarudzwa kwekugadzirisa kunokosha uye, munyaya yepropylene glycol, inogona kupa mamwe mabhenefiti e acylglutamic acid, akadai se hydration kana kuwedzera kunyungudika kwekugadzirisa.
Kunyange kuchena kweiyo acylglutamic acid inokonzeresa kwakakosha, vagadziri vanoti kudiwa kwemhando dzezvizoro kuri kukura nekuda kwemaitiro ane hushamwari.
Imwe pfungwa yakakosha yeiyi nzira inogoneka ndeye chirimwa-chakavakirwa uye chinogoneka chibviro chezvakagadzirwa kubva kunobva acylglutamic acids inoumbwa.Fatty acids inobva kumafuta emichindwe, RSPO (Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil) (painowanika) kana kokonati mafuta.Glutamic acid inowanikwa kubva pakuviriswa kwebeet molasses kana gorosi.
Glutamic acid uye fatty acids zvikamu zvemuviri zveganda nebvudzi.Glutamic acid inokosha amino acid ye epidermal NMF (natural moisturizing factor), inotangira kuPCA, uye inokoshawo amino acid yeproline uye hydroxyproline (maviri anokosha amino acids mu synthesis ye collagen uye elastin).Keratin ine 15% glutamic acid.
Yemahara mafuta acids mu stratum corneum account ye25% yehuwandu hwese epidermal lipids.Izvo zvakakosha kuti ganda rivhare basa.
Munguva ye keratinization, maitiro ekuwana cuticle, nhamba huru ye enzymes kubva mumitumbi yeOdran inokurudzirwa kune imwe nzvimbo yekunze.Aya ma enzyme anogona kuputsa ma substrates akasiyana.
Kana acylterocarboxylic acid ikaiswa paganda, inoputswa nema enzymes aya kuita zvikamu zviviri zvepakutanga: fatty acids uye glutamic acid.
Izvi zvinoreva kuti hapazove nechasara cheva surfactants vanowanzobatanidzwa ne acylglutamic acids uye acylaminoacids paganda kana bvudzi.Kutenda nekushandiswa kweaya ma surfactants, ganda nebvudzi zvinodzoreredza chimiro chavo chemuviri.
100% masero ekupona pamberi pe sodium octanoyl glutamate.Izvi zvakafanana kune maketani akareba emafuta.
Semuenzaniso, cholesterol inonzi intercellular lipid yecorneal layer uye inoita basa rinokosha mukudzivirira basa reganda.Haifanirwe kunyungudutswa kana kungonyungudika zvishoma nevano surfactants vanosanganisirwa mugwara rekuchenesa.
Kazhinji, sodium lauroyl glutamate uye acyl glutamate, zvisinei neketani yemafuta, haisi defatting agents.Vanobvisa chikamu chakakosha chekuputika, asi kwete intercellular cementing lipids inodiwa pakugadzirisa kwemvura ye stratum corneum.Izvi zvinozivikanwa seyakasarudzika scavenging kugona kweacyl glutamates.
Sodium cocoyl glutamate inovandudza zvakanyanya kunyorova kwezvigadzirwa zvekusuka-kubvisa.Iyo zvakare inoderedza kushambadza kweSLES (sodium laureth sulfate) paganda uye iri hydrophilic mafuta-mu-mvura emulsifier inobvumira kutonhora kugadziridzwa kweganda.Naizvozvo, inogona kushandiswa kugezesa zvinhu pachinzvimbo chekugeza.Izvo zvinoshandawo kune lauroyl chain.Aya ndiwo macheni maviri akafuta anoshandiswa pamusika wecosmetic.
Nhamba iri pazasi inopfupisa zvakasiyana-siyana zvekuita zve acylglutamic acid yakawedzerwa kune glutamic acid zvichienderana neketani yemafuta yakasarudzwa.
Ichishandisa nzira yakagadzikana uye yekuvandudza, Z&S Boka rinopa huwandu hwakasiyana hweacyl glutamates pasi pezita rechiratidzo "PROTELAN".
Yakawanda-inoshanda uye inopa akawanda mabhenefiti eganda nebvudzi, ivo vari kucheka-kumucheto uye vanozadzisa zvizere zvinotarisirwa zvemutengi wezana ramakore re21, uku vachiita kuti hupenyu hwemugadziri huve nyore!Vanokutendera kuti ugadzirise rinses uye rinses uchiomerera kune yakakurumbira "zvishoma zvakanyanya" musimboti: zvishoma zvinongedzo, zvakawanda zvinobatsira.Ivo vanonyatsobatanidza inogadzikana uye ine mutoro chemistry.
CosmeticOBS - Iyo Cosmetic Observatory ndiyo inotungamira sosi yeruzivo kuindasitiri yezvizoro.Mitemo yeEurope neyepasirese, maitiro emusika, nhau dzemukati, zvigadzirwa zvitsva, mishumo kubva kumakongiresi uye kuratidzwa: Cosmeticobs inopa nyanzvi yekutarisa zvizorwa, inogadziridzwa munguva chaiyo mazuva ese.