cocoyl glutamic aside

Amino ikomoka kuri acide ni umuryango mugari cyane wibigize bifite imirimo itandukanye.Tumaze gukemura ibice bimwe na bimwe, nka biopeptide cyangwa acide lipoamino.Undi muryango ushishikajwe cyane ni glutamic acide ikomoka kuri “acetyl glutamates,” ifitemo inyungu nyinshi nkishingiro ryimikorere itandukanye.Ibi nibyiza cyane.Virginie Herenton yabyitayeho cyane mumyaka yashize, atwemerera gutembera kuri iyi sanzure.Murakoze.Jean Claude Le Joliève
Nka shingiro rya chimie yamavuta ya amino acide, glutamates ya acyl yatumye abantu bashimishwa nukuri kubicuruzwa byogejwe mumavuta yo kwisiga yu Burayi mu mpera za 90.Dufatiye kuri siyansi, ibyo bintu bifatwa nkibintu byoroheje bikora byinshi kandi nibyiza kwisi.Ibikoresho birenze urugero bifite ibintu byinshi kandi bizakomeza gutanga icyizere mumyaka iri imbere.
Acyl glutamate igizwe na acide imwe cyangwa nyinshi ya C8 na acide L-glutamic kandi ikorwa na reaction ya acylation.
Umushakashatsi w’Ubuyapani Kikunae Ikeda yabanje kwerekana ko umami (uburyohe buryoshye) ari glutamate mu 1908. Yasanze isupu ya kelp irimo bimwe muribi, ndetse nimboga, inyama, amafi nibiryo byasembuwe.Yasabye ipatanti yo gutunganya inganda za MSG zitwa "Ajinomoto" maze mu 1908 akorana n’umuyapani w’inganda Suzuki Saburosuke gukora no gucuruza ibyo yahimbye.Kuva icyo gihe, monosodium glutamate yakoreshejwe nk'iyongera uburyohe mu biribwa.
Mu myaka ya za 1960 habaye ubushakashatsi bukomeye kuri acyl glutamates nkibintu byoroheje bya anionic surfactants.Acide yo mu cyiciro cya 1 acylglutamic yatangijwe na Ajinomoto mu 1972 kandi yakoreshejwe bwa mbere mu mugati woza dermatologiya na sosiyete ikora imiti yo mu Buyapani Yamanouchi.
Mu Burayi, abakora amavuta yo kwisiga bashimishijwe niyi miti hagati ya za 90.Beiersdorf yakoraga cyane kuri MSG kandi yari umwe mu matsinda ya mbere y’i Burayi ayakoresheje mu bicuruzwa byabo.Haravutse igisekuru gishya cyibicuruzwa by isuku, bifite ireme ryiza kandi ryubaha cyane imiterere ya epidermis.
Mu 1995, Itsinda rya Z&S ryabaye uruganda rwa mbere rukora ibikoresho by’ibanze mu Burayi byabyaye acide acylglutamic ku ruganda rw’Ubutaliyani muri Tricerro kandi rukomeje guhanga udushya muri uru rwego.
Dukurikije uko Schotten-Bauman yabyitwayemo, uburyo butabogamye bwa aside ya acylglutamic buboneka bitewe na aside aside ya chloride ya acide na aside glutamic nyuma yo kutabogama umunyu wa sodium hamwe n'umunyu wa sodiumi:
Inzira zinganda zisaba umusemburo, usibye rero umunyu usigaye muri reaction ya Schotten-Bowman, umusaruro wibisubizo nabyo birashirwaho.Umuti ukoreshwa urashobora kuba hexane, acetone, inzoga ya isopropyl, propylene glycol, cyangwa glycol ya propylene.
Mu nganda z’imiti hari uburyo butandukanye bukurikira reaction yibanze ya Bowman: - Gutandukana na acide minerval kugirango ukureho umunyu nuwumuti ukurikirwa no kutabogama: ubuziranenge bwibicuruzwa byanyuma ni byinshi, ariko inzira yakoreshejwe isaba intambwe nyinshi hamwe no gukoresha ingufu nyinshi.- Umunyu ubikwa mugihe cyibikorwa birangiye kandi ibishishwa birashishurwa: ubu ni uburyo bwangiza ibidukikije kuruta uburyo bwabanjirije, ariko busaba izindi ntambwe kubisubizo nyamukuru - Umunyu nuwumuti bigumishwa kurangiza inganda;Inzira: Ubu ni inzira irambye yintambwe imwe.Kubwibyo rero, guhitamo ibishishwa birakomeye kandi, kubijyanye na propylene glycol, birashobora gutanga inyungu zinyongera za acide acylglutamic, nka hydration cyangwa kongera imbaraga zo gukora.
Nubwo isuku ya aciliglutamic ivamo ari ingenzi, abayikora bavuga ko gukenera ibicuruzwa byo kwisiga bigenda byiyongera kubera ibikorwa byangiza ibidukikije.
Indi ngingo y'ingenzi y'ubu buryo burambye ni ibimera bishingiye ku bimera kandi bishobora kuvugururwa biva mu bikoresho fatizo biva muri acide acilglutamic.Amavuta acide aturuka kumavuta yintoki, RSPO (Imeza kumeza yamavuta yintoki) (aho ahari) cyangwa amavuta ya cocout.Acide Glutamic iboneka muri fermentation ya beterave cyangwa ingano.
Acide Glutamic na aside irike nibintu bigize physiologique yuruhu numusatsi.Acide Glutamic ni aside amine yingenzi kuri epidermal NMF (ibintu bisanzwe bitanga amazi), ibanziriza PCA, kandi ni na aside amine ikomeye kuri proline na hydroxyproline (acide ebyiri zingenzi za amine muri synthesis ya kolagen na elastine).Keratin irimo aside glutamic 15%.
Amavuta acide yubusa muri stratum corneum angana na 25% yumubare wuzuye wa lipide epidermal.Nibyingenzi kumikorere ya barrière.
Mugihe cya keratinisation, inzira yo kubona cicicle, umubare munini wa enzymes ziva mumibiri ya Odran zishishikarizwa mubidukikije bidasanzwe.Iyi misemburo irashobora gusenya insimburangingo zitandukanye.
Iyo aside ya acylterocarboxylic ishyizwe kuruhu, isenywa niyi misemburo ikora ibice bibiri byumwimerere: acide fatty na acide glutamic.
Ibi bivuze ko nta bisigisigi bya surfactants mubisanzwe bifitanye isano na acide aclglutamic na acylaminoacide kuruhu cyangwa umusatsi.Ndashimira ikoreshwa ryibi bintu, uruhu numusatsi bigarura imiterere yabantu.
100% selile ibaho imbere ya sodium octanoyl glutamate.Ni nako bimeze kuminyururu ndende.
Kurugero, cholesterol ni lipide intercellular selile ya corneal layer kandi igira uruhare runini mumikorere ya barriere yuruhu.Ntigomba guseswa cyangwa gushonga gato gusa na surfactants zashyizwe mumasuku.
Muri rusange, sodium lauroyl glutamate na acyl glutamate, hatitawe ku ruhererekane rw'ibinure, ntabwo ari ibintu byangiza.Bakuraho ikintu cyingenzi cyigisebe, ariko ntabwo ari lipide intercellular cimenting lipide ikenewe kugirango amazi abungabunge amazi ya corneum.Ibi bizwi nkubushobozi bwo gutoranya ubushobozi bwa acyl glutamates.
Sodium cocoyl glutamate itezimbere cyane ingaruka ziterwa nubushuhe bwibicuruzwa.Igabanya kandi adsorption ya SLES (sodium laureth sulfate) kuruhu kandi ni amavuta ya hydrophilique-mumazi-emulisiferi yemerera gutunganya uruhu rukonje.Kubwibyo, irashobora gukoreshwa mukwoza ibintu aho kwoza.Kimwe nikurikizwa kumurongo wa lauroyl.Ngiyo iminyururu ibiri yabyibushye ikoreshwa mumasoko yo kwisiga.
Igishushanyo gikurikira cyerekana incamake yibikorwa bitandukanye bya acide aclglutamic yongewe kuri acide glutamic bitewe nurunigi rwamavuta rwatoranijwe.
Ukoresheje uburyo burambye kandi bushya, Itsinda rya Z&S ritanga ubwoko butandukanye bwa glutamate munsi yizina rya "PROTELAN".
Imikorere myinshi kandi itanga inyungu nyinshi kuruhu numusatsi, biragezweho kandi byujuje byuzuye ibyifuzo byabaguzi bo mukinyejana cya 21, mugihe ubuzima bwabatezimbere bworoha cyane!Bakwemerera gushyira mu gaciro uburyo bwo kwoza no kwoza mugihe ukurikiza ihame rizwi cyane "bike ni byinshi": ibintu bike, inyungu nyinshi.Bahuza neza chimie irambye kandi ishinzwe.
CosmeticOBS - Indorerezi zo kwisiga nisoko yambere yamakuru yinganda zo kwisiga.Amabwiriza y’ibihugu by’i Burayi n’amahanga, imigendekere y’isoko, amakuru yingenzi, ibicuruzwa bishya, raporo ziva muri kongere n’imurikagurisha: Amavuta yo kwisiga atanga uburyo bwo kwisiga bw’umwuga, bugezwaho igihe nyacyo buri munsi.