Zochokera ku amino acid ndi gulu lalikulu la zosakaniza zomwe zimakhala ndi ntchito zosiyanasiyana.Tachitapo kale zigawo zina, monga biopeptides kapena lipoamino acid.Banja lina lomwe limakonda chidwi kwambiri ndi zochokera ku glutamic acid, "acetyl glutamates," zomwe ndi zochititsa chidwi kwambiri monga maziko a mapangidwe osiyanasiyana a thovu.Awa ndi ma surfactants abwino kwambiri.Virginie Herenton wasamalira kwambiri izi m’zaka zaposachedwapa, kutilola kuyenda m’chilengedwechi.Zikomo kwa iye.Jean Claude Le Jolieve
Monga maziko a chemistry yamafuta a amino acid, acyl glutamates adayambitsa chidwi chenicheni pazinthu zotsuka muzodzola za ku Europe kumapeto kwa zaka za m'ma 1990.Kuchokera kumalingaliro asayansi, ma surfactants awa amatengedwa ngati ofatsa ochita ntchito zambiri ndipo ndiabwino kwambiri padziko lapansi.Zosakaniza za Hyperactive zili ndi zinthu zambiri ndipo zidzakhalabe zodalirika m'zaka zikubwerazi.
Acyl glutamate imapangidwa ndi C8 fatty acids imodzi kapena zingapo ndi L-glutamic acid ndipo amapangidwa ndi acylation reaction.
Wofufuza wina wa ku Japan dzina lake Kikunae Ikeda poyambirira anazindikira kuti umami (kukoma kokoma) unali glutamate mu 1908. Anapeza kuti supu ya kelp inali ndi zina mwa zimenezi, komanso masamba, nyama, nsomba ndi zakudya zofufumitsa.Anapempha chilolezo kuti apangitse zokometsera za MSG zotchedwa "Ajinomoto" ndipo mu 1908 adagwirizana ndi Suzuki Saburosuke wamakampani aku Japan kuti apange ndikugulitsa zomwe adatulukira.Kuyambira pamenepo, monosodium glutamate yakhala ikugwiritsidwa ntchito ngati chowonjezera kukoma muzakudya.
M'zaka za m'ma 1960 adawona kafukufuku wofunikira mu acyl glutamates ngati ofatsa anionic surfactants.Class 1 acylglutamic acid idayambitsidwa ndi Ajinomoto mu 1972 ndipo idagwiritsidwa ntchito koyamba mu mkate woyeretsa khungu ndi kampani yaku Japan yopanga mankhwala Yamanouchi.
Ku Ulaya, opanga zodzoladzola anayamba kuchita chidwi ndi mankhwalawa pakati pa zaka za m'ma 1990.Beiersdorf adagwira ntchito kwambiri pa MSG ndipo anali amodzi mwamagulu oyamba ku Europe omwe adagwiritsa ntchito pazinthu zawo.Mbadwo watsopano wa mankhwala aukhondo umabadwa, ndi khalidwe lapamwamba komanso kulemekeza kwambiri mapangidwe a epidermis.
Mu 1995, Z&S Gulu idakhala woyamba kupanga zopangira ku Europe kupanga acylglutamic acid pamitengo yake yaku Italy ku Tricerro ndipo akupitiliza kupanga zatsopano mderali.
Malinga ndi zomwe Schotten-Bauman anachita, mawonekedwe osasunthika a acylglutamic acid amapezedwa ndi zomwe mafuta acid chlorides ali ndi glutamic acid atatha kutsitsa mchere wa sodium ndi mchere wa sodium:
Njira zamafakitale zimafunikira zosungunulira, kotero kuwonjezera pa mchere wotsalira muzochita za Schotten-Bowman, zomwe zimapangidwanso zimapangidwanso.Zosungunulira zomwe zimagwiritsidwa ntchito zingakhale hexane, acetone, isopropyl alcohol, propylene glycol, kapena propylene glycol.
M'makampani opanga mankhwala pali njira zosiyanasiyana zomwe zimatsatira zomwe Bowman anachita: - Kupatukana ndi mineral acids kuchotsa mchere ndi zosungunulira zomwe zimatsatiridwa ndi neutralization: chiyero cha mankhwala omaliza ndi apamwamba, koma ndondomeko yomwe imagwiritsidwa ntchito imafuna njira zingapo zogwiritsira ntchito mphamvu zambiri.- Mchere umasungidwa kumapeto kwa ndondomekoyi ndipo zosungunulira zimasungunuka: iyi ndi njira yotetezera zachilengedwe kuposa njira zam'mbuyomu, koma zimafuna njira zowonjezera zomwe zimachitika - Mchere ndi zosungunulira zimasungidwa kumapeto kwa mafakitale;Njira: Iyi ndi njira yokhazikika ya sitepe imodzi.Choncho, kusankha zosungunulira n'kofunika kwambiri ndipo, pa nkhani ya propylene glycol, angapereke zopindulitsa zina za asidi acylglutamic, monga hydration kapena kuchuluka kusungunuka kwa mapangidwe.
Ngakhale kuyeretsedwa kwa asidi acylglutamic ndikofunikira, opanga akuti kufunikira kwa zodzikongoletsera kukukulira chifukwa chokonda zachilengedwe.
Mfundo ina yofunika kwambiri ya njira yokhazikikayi ndiyomwe imachokera ku zomera ndi zongowonjezereka za zipangizo zomwe ma acylglutamic acid amapangidwa.Mafuta acids amachokera ku mafuta a kanjedza, RSPO (Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil) (ngati alipo) kapena mafuta a kokonati.Glutamic acid imapezeka kuchokera kuwira kwa beet molasses kapena tirigu.
Glutamic acid ndi mafuta acids ndi zinthu zakuthupi pakhungu ndi tsitsi.Glutamic acid ndi ofunika kwambiri amino acid kwa epidermal NMF (natural moisturizing factor), kalambulabwalo kwa PCA, komanso ndi yofunika kwambiri amino acid kwa proline ndi hydroxyproline (awiri zofunika amino zidulo mu synthesis collagen ndi elastin).Keratin ili ndi 15% glutamic acid.
Mafuta amafuta aulere mu stratum corneum amapanga 25% ya kuchuluka kwa epidermal lipids.Iwo ndi zofunika kwa khungu chotchinga ntchito.
Panthawi ya keratinization, njira yopezera cuticle, ma enzymes ambiri ochokera ku matupi a Odran amalimbikitsidwa kulowa m'malo a extracellular.Ma enzymes awa amatha kuphwanya magawo osiyanasiyana.
Acylterocarboxylic acid ikagwiritsidwa ntchito pakhungu, imaphwanyidwa ndi ma enzymes kuti apange zigawo ziwiri zoyambirira: mafuta acid ndi glutamic acid.
Izi zikutanthauza kuti sipadzakhala zotsalira za surfactants zomwe nthawi zambiri zimagwirizanitsidwa ndi acylglutamic acid ndi acylaminoacids pakhungu kapena tsitsi.Chifukwa cha kugwiritsa ntchito ma surfactants awa, khungu ndi tsitsi zimabwezeretsa kapangidwe kawo.
100% kupulumuka kwa cell pamaso pa sodium octanoyl glutamate.N'chimodzimodzinso ndi maunyolo aatali amafuta.
Mwachitsanzo, cholesterol ndi lipid yapakati pa cornea wosanjikiza ndipo imagwira ntchito yotchinga pakhungu.Siziyenera kusungunuka kapena kusungunuka pang'ono ndi zowonjezera zomwe zili mu ndondomeko yoyeretsa.
Nthawi zambiri, sodium lauroyl glutamate ndi acyl glutamate, mosasamala kanthu za unyolo wamafuta, sizowononga.Amachotsa chigawo chofunikira cha zidzolo, koma osati intercellular cementing lipids zofunika kuti amadzimadzi yokonza stratum corneum.Izi zimadziwika kuti ndi luso losankhira la acyl glutamates.
Sodium cocoyl glutamate imathandizira kwambiri kunyowa kwa zinthu zotsuka.Amachepetsanso kutsekemera kwa SLES (sodium laureth sulfate) pakhungu ndipo ndi emulsifier ya hydrophilic-in-water yomwe imalola kuzizira kwa khungu.Choncho, angagwiritsidwe ntchito kutsuka zinthu m'malo mochapa.Zomwezo zimagwiranso ntchito ku unyolo wa lauroyl.Awa ndi maunyolo awiri onenepa kwambiri omwe amagwiritsidwa ntchito pamsika wa zodzikongoletsera.
Chithunzi chomwe chili pansipa chikufotokozera mwachidule zamitundu yosiyanasiyana ya acylglutamic acid yowonjezeredwa ku glutamic acid kutengera tcheni chamafuta chomwe chasankhidwa.
Pogwiritsa ntchito njira yokhazikika komanso yatsopano, Gulu la Z & S limapereka mitundu yambiri ya acyl glutamates pansi pa dzina lachidziwitso "PROTELAN".
Zogwira ntchito zambiri komanso zopatsa phindu zambiri pakhungu ndi tsitsi, ndizokhazikika komanso zimakwaniritsa zomwe ogula azaka za zana la 21, ndikupangitsa moyo wa wopanga kukhala wosavuta!Amakulolani kuti mupange ma rinses ndi ma rinses mwanzeru potsatira mfundo yodziwika bwino ya "zocheperako": zosakaniza zochepa, zopindulitsa zambiri.Amaphatikiza bwino chemistry yokhazikika komanso yodalirika.
CosmeticOBS - The Cosmetic Observatory ndiye gwero lotsogola lazidziwitso zamakampani azodzikongoletsera.Malamulo aku Europe ndi apadziko lonse lapansi, machitidwe amsika, nkhani zophatikizira, zatsopano, malipoti ochokera ku ma congresses ndi ziwonetsero: Cosmeticobs imapereka kuwunikira kodzola kwa akatswiri, kusinthidwa munthawi yeniyeni tsiku lililonse.
Nthawi yotumiza: Apr-23-2024