cocoyl glutamic acid

Amino acid derivatives yog ib tsev neeg dav heev ntawm cov khoom xyaw nrog ntau lub zog.Peb twb tau hais txog qee ntu, xws li biopeptides lossis lipoamino acids.Lwm tsev neeg ntawm kev txaus siab tshwj xeeb yog glutamic acid derivatives, "acetyl glutamates," uas yog qhov txaus siab rau lub hauv paus rau ntau yam ua npuas ncauj formulations.Cov no yog cov surfactants zoo heev.Virginie Herenton tau saib xyuas qhov no zoo nyob rau xyoo tas los no, cia peb taug kev hla lub ntiaj teb no.Ua tsaug rau nws.Jean Claude Le Joliève
Raws li lub hauv paus ntawm fatty amino acid chemistry, acyl glutamates ua rau muaj kev txaus siab tiag tiag hauv cov khoom siv yaug tawm hauv European cov tshuaj pleev ib ce thaum xyoo 1990s.Los ntawm kev tshawb fawb pom, cov surfactants tau suav hais tias yog cov tshuaj tua kab mob me me thiab yog qhov zoo tshaj plaws hauv ntiaj teb.Hyperactive cov khoom xyaw muaj ntau yam thiab yuav nyob twj ywm zoo heev nyob rau hauv lub xyoo tom ntej.
Acyl glutamate yog tsim los ntawm ib los yog ntau tshaj C8 fatty acids thiab L-glutamic acid thiab yog tsim los ntawm cov tshuaj tiv thaiv acylation.
Tus kws tshawb fawb Nyij Pooj Kikunae Ikeda Ameslikas txheeb xyuas umami (qab zib) ua glutamate hauv xyoo 1908. Nws pom tias cov kua zaub muaj qee yam ntawm cov no, nrog rau zaub, nqaij, ntses thiab zaub mov fermented.Nws tau thov rau patent rau industrialize MSG seasoning hu ua "Ajinomoto" thiab nyob rau hauv 1908 koom tes nrog Japanese industrialist Suzuki Saburosuke los tsim thiab ua lag luam nws invention.Txij thaum ntawd los, monosodium glutamate tau siv los ua cov khoom qab zib hauv cov khoom noj.
Xyoo 1960s pom kev tshawb fawb tseem ceeb rau hauv acyl glutamates li me anionic surfactants.Chav kawm 1 acylglutamic acid tau qhia los ntawm Ajinomoto hauv xyoo 1972 thiab tau siv thawj zaug hauv cov tshuaj ntxuav tes los ntawm Nyiv lub tuam txhab tshuaj Yamanouchi.
Hauv Tebchaws Europe, cov tuam txhab tshuaj pleev ib ce tau nyiam cov tshuaj no hauv nruab nrab-1990s.Beiersdorf tau ua haujlwm ntau ntawm MSG thiab yog ib qho ntawm thawj pab pawg European siv nws hauv lawv cov khoom.Ib tiam tshiab ntawm cov khoom siv tu cev tau yug los, nrog kev ua tau zoo dua qub thiab kev hwm ntau dua rau cov qauv ntawm cov epidermis.
Xyoo 1995, Z&S Group tau dhau los ua thawj cov khoom lag luam hauv Tebchaws Europe los tsim cov acylglutamic acid ntawm nws cov nroj tsuag Italian hauv Tricerro thiab txuas ntxiv tsim kho tshiab hauv cheeb tsam no.
Raws li Schotten-Bauman cov tshuaj tiv thaiv, daim ntawv neutralized ntawm acylglutamic acid yog tau los ntawm cov tshuaj tiv thaiv ntawm fatty acid chlorides nrog glutamic acid tom qab neutralization ntawm sodium ntsev nrog sodium ntsev:
Cov txheej txheem kev lag luam xav tau cov kuab tshuaj, yog li ntxiv rau cov ntsev ntxiv hauv cov tshuaj tiv thaiv Schotten-Bowman, cov tshuaj tiv thaiv los ntawm cov khoom kuj raug tsim.Cov kuab tshuaj siv yuav yog hexane, acetone, isopropyl cawv, propylene glycol, lossis propylene glycol.
Hauv kev lag luam tshuaj lom neeg muaj ntau txoj hauv kev raws li cov tshuaj Bowman yooj yim: - Kev sib cais nrog cov ntxhia hauv cov kua qaub kom tshem tawm cov ntsev thiab cov kuab tshuaj ua raws li qhov nruab nrab: qhov purity ntawm cov khoom kawg yog siab, tab sis cov txheej txheem siv yuav tsum tau siv ob peb kauj ruam nrog kev siv zog siab.- Cov ntsev tau khaws cia thaum kawg ntawm cov txheej txheem thiab cov kuab tshuaj yog distilled: qhov no yog ib qho kev tiv thaiv ib puag ncig ntau dua li cov txheej txheem dhau los, tab sis yuav tsum muaj cov kauj ruam ntxiv rau cov tshuaj tiv thaiv tseem ceeb - Cov ntsev thiab cov kuab tshuaj tau khaws cia thaum kawg ntawm cov txheej txheem kev lag luam;Txheej Txheem: Qhov no yog ib txoj hauv kev ruaj khov tshaj plaws.Yog li, kev xaiv cov kuab tshuaj yog qhov tseem ceeb thiab, nyob rau hauv cov ntaub ntawv ntawm propylene glycol, tuaj yeem muab cov txiaj ntsig ntxiv ntawm acylglutamic acid, xws li hydration lossis nce solubility ntawm cov formulation.
Thaum lub purity ntawm lub resulting acylglutamic acid yog ib qho tseem ceeb, manufacturers hais tias kev thov rau cov tshuaj pleev ib ce hom yog loj hlob vim hais tias ntawm ib puag ncig tus phooj ywg kev coj.
Lwm lub ntsiab lus tseem ceeb ntawm qhov kev ua kom ruaj khov no yog cov nroj tsuag-raws li thiab rov ua dua tshiab ntawm cov khoom siv raw los ntawm cov acylglutamic acids.Fatty acids los ntawm xibtes roj, RSPO (Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil) (qhov twg muaj) los yog txiv maj phaub roj.Glutamic acid yog tau los ntawm fermentation ntawm beet molasses los yog nplej.
Glutamic acid thiab fatty acids yog physiological Cheebtsam ntawm daim tawv nqaij thiab plaub hau.Glutamic acid yog ib qho tseem ceeb amino acid rau epidermal NMF (natural moisturizing factor), ib tug precursor rau PCA, thiab kuj yog ib qho tseem ceeb amino acid rau proline thiab hydroxyproline (ob yam tseem ceeb amino acids nyob rau hauv lub synthesis ntawm collagen thiab elastin).Keratin muaj 15% glutamic acid.
Dawb fatty acids nyob rau hauv stratum corneum account rau 25% ntawm tag nrho cov nyiaj ntawm epidermal lipids.Lawv yog cov tseem ceeb rau daim tawv nqaij barrier muaj nuj nqi.
Thaum lub sij hawm keratinization, tus txheej txheem ntawm tau txais cuticle, ib tug loj tus naj npawb ntawm enzymes los ntawm Odran lub cev yog stimulated mus rau hauv lub extracellular ib puag ncig.Cov enzymes no tuaj yeem rhuav tshem ntau yam substrate.
Thaum acylterocarboxylic acid yog siv rau ntawm daim tawv nqaij, nws tau tawg los ntawm cov enzymes los tsim ob yam tseem ceeb: fatty acids thiab glutamic acid.
Qhov no txhais tau hais tias yuav tsis muaj qhov seem ntawm surfactants feem ntau cuam tshuam nrog acylglutamic acids thiab acylaminoacids ntawm daim tawv nqaij lossis plaub hau.Ua tsaug rau kev siv cov surfactants, daim tawv nqaij thiab plaub hau rov qab los ntawm lawv cov physiological muaj pes tsawg leeg.
100% cell ciaj sia nyob rau hauv lub xub ntiag ntawm sodium octanoyl glutamate.Ib yam yog qhov tseeb rau cov roj chains ntev.
Piv txwv li, cov roj (cholesterol) yog ib qho intercellular lipid ntawm lub pob txha txheej thiab ua lub luag haujlwm tseem ceeb hauv kev ua haujlwm ntawm daim tawv nqaij.Nws yuav tsum tsis txhob yaj los yog tsuas yog me ntsis yaj los ntawm cov surfactants suav nrog hauv cov mis tu.
Feem ntau, sodium lauroyl glutamate thiab acyl glutamate, tsis hais cov saw roj, tsis yog cov tshuaj tiv thaiv.Lawv tshem tawm ib qho tseem ceeb ntawm cov pob liab liab, tab sis tsis yog intercellular cementing lipids tsim nyog rau kev saib xyuas dej ntawm stratum corneum.Qhov no yog lub npe hu ua kev xaiv khawb qhov peev xwm ntawm acyl glutamates.
Sodium cocoyl glutamate ho txhim kho cov nyhuv moisturizing ntawm cov khoom siv yaug tawm.Nws kuj tseem txo cov adsorption ntawm SLES (sodium laureth sulfate) rau ntawm daim tawv nqaij thiab yog hydrophilic roj-hauv-dej emulsifier uas tso cai rau kev ua haujlwm txias ntawm daim tawv nqaij.Yog li ntawd, nws tuaj yeem siv los yaug cov khoom es tsis txhob yaug.Tib yam siv rau cov saw lauroyl.Cov no yog ob lub fattest chains tam sim no siv nyob rau hauv lub khw kom zoo nkauj.
Daim duab hauv qab no qhia txog qhov sib txawv ntawm kev ua haujlwm ntawm acylglutamic acid ntxiv rau glutamic acid nyob ntawm seb cov roj ntsha tau xaiv.
Siv txoj hauv kev ruaj khov thiab tsim tshiab, Z&S Group muaj ntau yam ntawm acyl glutamates raws li lub npe "PROTELAN".
Multi-functional thiab muab ntau yam txiaj ntsig rau cov tawv nqaij thiab plaub hau, lawv tau txiav thiab ua tau raws li qhov xav tau ntawm cov neeg siv khoom hauv xyoo pua 21st, thaum ua rau tus tsim lub neej yooj yim dua!Lawv tso cai rau koj los tsim cov tshuaj yaug thiab yaug thaum ua raws li lub ntsiab lus "tsawg dua" nto moo: cov khoom xyaw tsawg dua, cov txiaj ntsig ntau dua.Lawv zoo kawg nkaus ua ke kom ruaj khov thiab muaj lub luag haujlwm chemistry.
CosmeticOBS - Lub Cosmetic Observatory yog thawj qhov chaw ntawm cov ntaub ntawv rau kev lag luam tshuaj pleev ib ce.Cov kev cai nyob sab Europe thiab thoob ntiaj teb, kev lag luam tiam sis, cov khoom siv xov xwm, cov khoom tshiab, cov lus ceeb toom los ntawm cov rooj sib tham thiab cov rooj sib tham: Cosmeticobs muab cov kws tshaj lij tshuaj pleev ib ce saib xyuas, kho tshiab hauv lub sijhawm tiag tiag txhua hnub.