Abubuwan da aka samo asali na Amino acid babban iyali ne na sinadarai tare da ayyuka daban-daban.Mun riga mun magance wasu sassa, kamar biopeptides ko lipoamino acid.Wani dangin da ke da sha'awa na musamman shine abubuwan glutamic acid, "acetyl glutamates," waɗanda ke da sha'awa sosai a matsayin tushen tsarin kumfa iri-iri.Waɗannan su ne mafi kyawun surfactants.Virginie Herenton ta kula sosai da wannan a cikin 'yan shekarun nan, yana ba mu damar tafiya cikin wannan sararin samaniya.Godiya gareta.Jean Claude Le Jolieve
A matsayin tushen sunadarai na amino acid mai kitse, acyl glutamates ya haifar da sha'awar gaske ga samfuran kurkura a cikin kayan kwalliyar Turai a ƙarshen 1990s.Daga ra'ayi na kimiyya, waɗannan surfactants ana ɗaukar su azaman mai sauƙi multifunctional surfactants kuma sune mafi kyau a duniya.Abubuwan da ke da ƙarfi suna da bangarori da yawa kuma za su kasance masu ban sha'awa sosai a cikin shekaru masu zuwa.
Acyl glutamate ya ƙunshi ɗaya ko fiye C8 fatty acids da L-glutamic acid kuma ana samarwa ta hanyar acylation.
Wani mai bincike dan kasar Japan Kikunae Ikeda da farko ya gano umami (dadi mai dadi) a matsayin glutamate a shekara ta 1908. Ya gano cewa miyar kelp tana dauke da wasu daga cikin wadannan, da kuma kayan lambu, nama, kifi da abinci mai ganyaye.Ya nemi takardar izini don samar da kayan yaji na MSG mai suna "Ajinomoto" kuma a cikin 1908 ya hada gwiwa tare da masana'antar Japan Suzuki Saburosuke don samarwa da tallata abin da ya kirkiro.Tun daga wannan lokacin, ana amfani da monosodium glutamate azaman mai haɓaka dandano a cikin abinci.
1960s sun ga gagarumin bincike a cikin acyl glutamates a matsayin m anionic surfactants.Class 1 acylglutamic acid Ajinomoto ne ya gabatar da shi a cikin 1972 kuma an fara amfani da shi a cikin burodin tsarkakewar fata ta kamfanin Yamanouchi na Japan.
A Turai, masana'antun kayan shafawa sun fara sha'awar wannan sinadari a tsakiyar shekarun 1990.Beiersdorf yayi aiki sosai akan MSG kuma yana ɗaya daga cikin ƙungiyoyin Turai na farko da suka yi amfani da shi a cikin samfuran su.An haifi sabon ƙarni na samfuran tsabta, tare da inganci mafi girma da girmamawa ga tsarin epidermis.
A cikin 1995, rukunin Z&S ya zama farkon mai samar da albarkatun ƙasa a Turai don samar da acid acylglutamic a shukar Italiyanci a Tricerro kuma yana ci gaba da haɓakawa a wannan yanki.
Dangane da amsawar Schotten-Bauman, nau'in acylglutamic acid mai tsaka-tsaki yana samuwa ta hanyar amsawar fatty acid chlorides tare da glutamic acid bayan neutralization na sodium gishiri tare da sodium gishiri:
Hanyoyin masana'antu suna buƙatar kaushi, don haka ban da gishirin da suka rage a cikin halayen Schotten-Bowman, ana samar da abubuwan da suka dace.Abubuwan da ake amfani da su na iya zama hexane, acetone, isopropyl barasa, propylene glycol, ko propylene glycol.
A cikin masana'antar sinadarai akwai hanyoyi daban-daban da ke bin ainihin halayen Bowman: - Rabuwa tare da acid ma'adinai don cire gishiri da kaushi wanda ke biye da tsaka tsaki: tsabtar samfurin ƙarshe yana da girma, amma tsarin da aka yi amfani da shi yana buƙatar matakai da yawa tare da amfani da makamashi mai yawa.- Ana ajiye gishiri a ƙarshen tsari kuma mai narkewa yana distilled: wannan shine tsarin da ya fi dacewa da muhalli fiye da hanyoyin da suka gabata, amma yana buƙatar ƙarin matakai don babban abin da ya faru - Gishiri da kaushi suna riƙewa a ƙarshen tsarin masana'antu;Tsari: Wannan ita ce hanya mafi ɗorewa ta mataki ɗaya.Sabili da haka, zaɓin sauran ƙarfi yana da mahimmanci kuma, a cikin yanayin propylene glycol, na iya samar da ƙarin fa'idodi na acid acylglutamic, kamar hydration ko haɓakar narkewar tsari.
Yayin da tsabtar acid acylglutamic da aka samu yana da mahimmanci, masana'antun sun ce buƙatun samfuran kayan kwalliya na haɓaka saboda ayyukan abokantaka na muhalli.
Wani mahimmin batu na wannan ɗorewar hanyar ita ce tushen tushen shuka da kuma sabunta tushen albarkatun ƙasa waɗanda aka haɗa acylglutamic acid.Fatty acids suna fitowa daga man dabino, RSPO (Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil) (in da akwai) ko man kwakwa.Ana samun Glutamic acid daga fermentation na gwoza molasses ko alkama.
Glutamic acid da fatty acids abubuwa ne na jiki na fata da gashi.Glutamic acid wani muhimmin amino acid ne ga epidermal NMF (na halitta moisturizing factor), precursor zuwa PCA, kuma shi ne kuma wani muhimmin amino acid ga proline da hydroxyproline (biyu muhimman amino acid a cikin kira na collagen da elastin).Keratin ya ƙunshi 15% glutamic acid.
Fatty acids kyauta a cikin stratum corneum suna da kashi 25% na adadin adadin lipids na epidermal.Suna da mahimmanci don aikin shingen fata.
A lokacin keratinization, aiwatar da samun cuticle, babban adadin enzymes daga jikin Odran suna motsawa cikin yanayin waje.Wadannan enzymes na iya rushe sassa daban-daban.
Lokacin da aka shafa acylterocarboxylic acid akan fata, waɗannan enzymes suna rushewa don samar da asali guda biyu: fatty acid da glutamic acid.
Wannan yana nufin cewa ba za a sami ragowar abubuwan surfactants yawanci hade da acid acylglutamic da acylaminoacids akan fata ko gashi.Godiya ga yin amfani da wadannan surfactants, fata da gashi mayar da su physiological abun da ke ciki.
Rayuwar tantanin halitta 100% a gaban sodium octanoyl glutamate.Hakanan gaskiya ne ga sarƙoƙi mai tsayi.
Misali, cholesterol shine lipid intercellular lipid na corneal Layer kuma yana taka muhimmiyar rawa a aikin shinge na fata.Bai kamata a narkar da shi ba ko kuma kawai an narkar da shi ta hanyar surfactants da aka haɗa a cikin tsarin tsaftacewa.
Gabaɗaya, sodium lauroyl glutamate da acyl glutamate, ba tare da la’akari da sarkar mai ba, ba wakilai bane.Suna cire wani muhimmin sashi na kurji, amma ba ɗimbin simintin siminti na intercellular da ake buƙata don kula da ruwa na stratum corneum ba.An san wannan a matsayin ikon zaɓe na acyl glutamate.
Sodium cocoyl glutamate yana inganta ingantaccen sakamako mai laushi na samfuran wanke-wanke.Hakanan yana rage adsorption na SLES (sodium laureth sulfate) zuwa fata kuma shine emulsifier mai mai a cikin ruwa na hydrophilic wanda ke ba da izinin sarrafa fata na sanyi.Don haka, ana iya amfani da shi don kurkura abubuwa maimakon kurkura.Hakanan ya shafi sarkar lauroyl.Waɗannan su ne sarƙoƙi biyu mafi ƙiba a halin yanzu ana amfani da su a kasuwar kayan kwalliya.
Hoton da ke ƙasa yana taƙaita kaddarorin ayyuka daban-daban na acylglutamic acid da aka ƙara zuwa glutamic acid dangane da sarkar mai da aka zaɓa.
Yin amfani da ingantaccen tsari mai dorewa da haɓakawa, rukunin Z&S yana ba da nau'ikan acyl glutamate masu yawa a ƙarƙashin sunan alamar "PROTELAN".
Multi-aikin da bayar da fa'idodi masu yawa ga fata da gashi, suna yanke-baki kuma suna cika tsammanin mabukaci na ƙarni na 21, yayin da suke sauƙaƙe rayuwar mai haɓakawa!Suna ba ka damar yin amfani da ruwa mai tsabta da kuma wankewa yayin da kake bin ka'idar sanannen "ƙasa shine mafi": ƙananan sinadaran, ƙarin amfani.Sun haɗu daidai gwargwado mai ɗorewa da alhakin sunadarai.
CosmeticOBS - The Cosmetic Observatory shine babban tushen bayanai don masana'antar kayan kwalliya.Dokokin Turai da na kasa da kasa, yanayin kasuwa, labarai na sinadarai, sabbin kayayyaki, rahotanni daga majalissar wakilai da nune-nunen: Cosmeticobs yana ba da kulawar kayan kwalliyar ƙwararrun, sabuntawa a ainihin lokacin kowace rana.
Lokacin aikawa: Afrilu-23-2024